The SUV was packed and ready as we braved the heavy traffic streaming out of Perth just after 4 PM on a Friday afternoon. It was a familiar sight, part of the ritual that comes with heading out for a weekend getaway.
My wife and I calculated that more than half of our 420-kilometer drive to Denmark would unfold in near darkness, so we planned only brief pit stops and a quick meal from a roadside service station.
Our end goal? The Denmark Hotel—not your typical bricky country pub but a newly refurbished gem that has stood the test of a century, and one we hope will justify the 10-hour round trip for just a weekend.
Well, it’s technically 99 years old, but given its history, you could argue that a fresh coat of paint was overdue, despite what some locals might think.
As we followed the hypnotic white lines of Albany Highway, meant to keep weary travelers alert, we pulled into the hotel parking lot at 10:20 PM. Our eyelids were heavy, as was the sense of anticipation for what awaited us. The lot was only a quarter full, a clear sign of the weekend following the end of school holidays.
Fortunately, we’d received a key code in advance, allowing us to glide through the touch-sensitive door mechanism to unlock our designated River Room. This keyless entry system was a stroke of genius; it eliminated the anxiety of misplacing a room key while requiring no human interaction—an early win for our stay.
Even at this late hour, the adjacent pub was closed, but soft music drifted through the car park, gently reminding us that we were not entirely alone. The ambiance was surprisingly welcoming.
We quickly unpacked and scanned our room. Spacious enough for two, measuring in at 28 sqm, it featured a plush king bed and a charming retro fridge for our drinks. Earthy tones graced the decor, likely a nod to the stunning natural beauty of the surrounding region.
The shower, while adequate for one, had a tendency to splash water on the floor, and it probably could use a slightly larger basin for the morning routine. However, overall, the room was quite comfortable.
Marketed as a “boutique basecamp” to explore the expansive wine region, world-class beaches, and endless hiking trails, the room fits the $230 per night price tag in the heart of town. Admittedly, that’s typical summer pricing.
Upon inspecting the guest brochure, it was clear the hotel was eager to showcase its one-stop-shop concept, offering wine delivery right from their chic Denmark Drops bottle shop to our room.
Following a day filled with sun-soaked beach outings at Elephant Rocks and Greens Pool—two must-visit destinations—we freshened up and strolled over to the bottle shop to see how it lived up to the hype.
Basking in the afternoon sun, the crisp white facade of the establishment blended seamlessly across three distinct but complementary venues. Framed by the lush greenery of Berridge Park, the vibrancy of the space truly stood out.
As we approached Denmark Drops, its eye-catching branding beckoned us inside, where a thoughtful curation of local wines was neatly organized across two shelves.
A diverse selection of artisanal beers was also available, making it a perfect stop for a weekend refreshment without breaking the bank.
Andries Mostert, co-manager and a wine producer himself, guided us through a tasting of local varietals. He showcased several of his regional favorites, including a Gruner Veltliner from the up-and-coming producer Lowboi, a Riesling from the esteemed Frankland Estate, and a special offering from his own label, Brave New Wine.
Andries is passionate about spotlighting the Great Southern’s rich produce, alongside a carefully chosen selection of European varietals. He noted that many wines available in-store are not found in major retailers and lack cellar doors.
With genuine interest in the establishment’s new chapter—having reopened just before Christmas after an extensive six-month revamp—Andries has made it his mission to revitalize the Denmark Hotel.
“This hotel has been iconic for many years,” he shared, revealing how earlier owners had neglected to invest in its upkeep, turning it into “a bit of a dive.” Yet, he emphasized that locals were deeply committed to restoring it to its former glory.
New ownership took over a couple of years back, and while the hotel operated as usual for the first year, the creative genius of Fremantle-based architects Benson Studio and See Design Studio was enlisted to breathe new life into the historic venue. Andries acknowledged some initial resistance from long-time locals when renovations were proposed, but most eventually embraced the changes.
“The old boys who used to sit here, drinking pints and placing bets at the TAB, were the most upset,” he recalled with a chuckle.
As we explored the extensive updates he labeled phase one of the refurbishment, Andries expressed pride in the facelift of the Bar & Bistro, which is also accessible through Denmark Drops. The bar retains its classic country pub vibe, complete with a dart board, outdoor patio, and walk-up bar, while the 80-seat bistro has undergone the most significant transformation.
“The interior was really starting to feel rundown—so no more sticky carpets,” he quipped. “We knocked down some walls, revealed many of the original steel and timber beams, and aimed to maintain the building’s character while giving it a fresh shine.”
Beyond its vibrant aesthetic, the seasonal menu showcases local produce that strikes a delicate balance between traditional pub fare and fine dining, successfully attracting locals back to what could be considered the community’s central hub.
As Andries pointed out, with limited dining options in the region, this transformation is essential.
Under the guidance of the chef from Denmark’s beloved Mrs Jones café, the menu highlights sensible portions aimed at minimizing waste while maximizing flavor.
As the final touch of our experience, we ventured to the bistro for dinner around 7:30 PM, finding nearly every seat occupied—a testament to the lively Saturday night vibe.
The crowd was predominantly made up of adult families, mingling with a selection of visitors who wore relaxed expressions similar to ours. Many younger locals opted for the casual outdoor seating and bar area, which offered a different atmosphere from the bistro.
I chose the Great Southern scotch fillet, a traditional pub staple, likely one of the least adventurous items on the menu. When Andries appeared again, covering every corner of the venue, he suggested pairing my steak with a glass of Fervor Shiraz—a recommendation that was spot on.
My wife went for the ricotta gnocchi served with a mushroom ragu. “This is the best gnocchi I’ve had in a while,” she declared, a statement hardly exaggerated given her vegetarian diet. After sneaking a taste, I found no reason to disagree; the quality was undeniable.
By 8:30 PM, the bistro began to empty, coaxing us to try something from the dessert menu. We settled on a shared chocolate tart, and I was grateful it was a shared venture, as the rich indulgence was more than enough for one person.
By 9:30 PM, with the bistro mostly cleared of diners and only a few remaining patrons at the bar, we felt an effortless escape route back to our rooms—a mere stumble away, given the close quarters.
However, we did navigate around stray dust and loose stones due to a few unfinished areas—remnants of the rush to prepare for peak season.
With a second phase of renovations on the horizon, along with plans for live music and wine-tasting evenings, the hotel aims to bridge the gap between its coastal charm and contemporary demands.
We enjoyed breakfast in town before checking out at 10 AM—again, no key return necessary. As we made our way through the bistro, we waved goodbye to a staff member who expressed gratitude for our stay.
Despite its evolution into a modern, multifaceted venue, The Denmark Hotel has preserved much of its century-old allure. By continuously adapting to meet the needs of today’s travelers, this cherished establishment may well attract new generations for another 100 years.
It strikes a comfortable balance—neither fancy nor overly renovated. And when it comes to value, it truly hits the mark.
RATING
4 stars out of 5.
+ Zach Margolius was a guest of The Denmark Hotel. They have not influenced this story, nor has it been reviewed prior to publication.
