Stepping into Fanal in Madeira feels akin to wandering into the pages of a storybook.
Having navigated a serene mountain road, we find ourselves at a quaint parking area nestled in the landscape. Before us sprawls Madeira’s ancient Laurisilva forest, a tapestry of hilly meadows and gnarled trees. Suddenly, a fog begins to roll in from the hills, enveloping the scenery in a veil of mystery.
This is no mere coincidence; the forest is often cloaked in fog, a feature we had longed to experience. Now that we stand here, we are utterly entranced, meandering among the contorted trunks, spellbound by the enchanting atmosphere.
How to Reach Fanal
The Fanal forest is located on the mountain plateau of Paul da Serra, in the northwestern reaches of Madeira, approximately 10 kilometers east of Ribeira Da Janela. If you’re setting off from Funchal, expect a scenic drive of about 50 kilometers, taking roughly an hour and a half. Access is solely by car, and a small parking area is conveniently positioned nearby.
From the parking lot, a brief stroll leads you into this captivating woodland. However, do tread carefully; the paths can be treacherous with mud, and the occasional grazing cow leaves its mark, so watch your step!
Lost Amidst the Fog
In a moment of unrestrained enthusiasm, I inadvertently stray from my travel companions, wandering deeper into the forest. I realize I’m caught in a delightful kind of disorientation. With visibility reduced to mere meters, the silence around me is as profound as the fog itself. It feels as though I’ve stepped into a different dimension, time bending in the ethereal surroundings.
Suddenly, I spot a familiar tree—one I recognized from earlier. A realization dawns: I’ve wandered in a circle. I am thoroughly ensnared in this fairytale!
Madeira’s Pristine Laurisilva Forest
When the first explorers set foot on Madeira, they encountered a landscape dominated by Laurisilva forest. Unfortunately, only 16% of this verdant expanse remains today. Once a dominant feature of southern Europe, Laurisilva is now confined to a few regions, with Madeira hosting the largest area. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Exploring Fanal
You need not venture far to immerse yourself in the forest’s beauty, but it’s certainly a splendid area for exploration. Here are a couple of trails worth considering:
Vereda do Fanal (PR13)
This trail begins at regional road 209 near Assobiadores and concludes at the Posto Florestal Do Fanal. Spanning 10.8 kilometers, it offers an easy to moderate challenge with an elevation drop from 1,420 to 1,130 meters, taking about four hours.
Alternatively, another trail initiated at the same regional road leads to Curral Falso. This route measures 7.2 kilometers and, like the previous one, is graded easy to moderate, with an elevation decline from 1,130 to 840 meters, estimated to take about three hours.
Every Tree in Fanal is a Work of Art
The trees of Fanal are undeniably unique—each one crooked and wind-sculpted, boasting its own personality. I’ve captured countless photographs, eager to share the beauty of this extraordinary landscape.
