In previous discussions on How to Live in Denmark, I’ve touched upon “The Danish Year,” a series of culturally significant events that punctuate life in Denmark, even if they don’t fit the mold of traditional holidays. In 2025, I plan to explore these themes more deeply through a monthly podcast, reflecting on the historical context of Danish culture, as well as its future.
Contrary to popular belief, November isn’t actually the rainiest month in Denmark—October claims that title. However, November often feels much wetter, with its persistent grey skies and early darkness, compounded by chilling drizzle that sometimes falls as icy pellets.
Denmark’s landscape is shaped by water, from its extensive coastline to its myriad lakes and rivers. Much like nearby Netherlands, the nation is perilously close to sea level, making it highly vulnerable to flooding.
Recent climate changes have exacerbated this risk, with sudden cloudbursts, or cloudbursts, causing significant harm. As a result, retrofitting Denmark to better manage this increasing volume of water has become a national priority.
A cloudburst is defined as more than 15 millimeters of rain falling in under 30 minutes, or 3 centimeters in just an hour. During such intense storms, the sheer volume of rain exceeds what the ground and drainage systems can manage.
November Rain in Denmark
The consequences of these heavy downpours are all too familiar: flooded streets, damaged historical sites, and basements filled with water—ruining everything from treasured baby clothes to Christmas ornaments. Even the ground-floor emergency rooms of hospitals sometimes face evacuation in the chaos.
While the sandy West Coast often bears the brunt of this water onslaught, high-end apartments in Østerbro, a Copenhagen neighborhood favored by the political and media elite, are not spared. This vulnerability keeps climate change and the “green transition” at the forefront of political discourse across the nation, long after these issues have faded from the headlines elsewhere.
Recreating Natural Marshes and Meadows
As part of a massive national initiative, Denmark is embarking on a construction project aimed at transforming the landscape into a sponge-like entity, capable of absorbing significant amounts of rain in a short time.
This often involves rewilding efforts that restore marshes, meadows, and rivers that were paved over during the country’s industrialization in the 19th and 20th centuries. In my vicinity, for instance, a previous empty lawn adjacent to a 1950s apartment complex in Copenhagen Northwest has been transformed into a 20,000-square-meter meadow.
The Municipality Built a Meadow
Recently, local authorities enlisted a landscape artist to create a varied, organic landscape featuring natural materials like wood and meandering paths, integrated with small valleys for effective drainage. Concealed by lush plants and wildflowers, these valleys provide both beauty and functionality, surrounded by trees, picnic spots, and playgrounds for the community to enjoy.
I shared a brief video showcasing this meadow on our How to Live in Denmark TikTok account—don’t forget to turn up the sound to enjoy the accompanying music!
Daylighting a River in Aarhus
Another innovative water management strategy is “daylighting”—uncovering rivers that have been obscured by concrete. The most notable example is in Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city, where the Aros River—once at the heart of a Viking settlement—was buried beneath a highway. Gradually, the concrete was stripped away, allowing the river to reclaim its place in the urban landscape.
Today, it flows through downtown Aarhus, with sections featuring staircase seating ideal for summertime riverfront gatherings, where locals and visitors can enjoy cafes and shops. Other segments encourage wild growth along the banks, supported by iron and wooden footbridges for pedestrian access. This restoration not only enhances urban aesthetics but also contributes to flood prevention efforts.
Project to Open Up an Underground River in Copenhagen
A similar project is in the works for Copenhagen. Åboulevarden—often mistaken as a river, is in fact a congested four-lane highway frequented by drag racers and notorious for its unwelcoming atmosphere for pedestrians and cyclists.
Beneath this busy thoroughfare flows the Ladegårdsåen stream, and discussions are underway to relocate the traffic underground, in order to “daylight” the stream and allow stormwater to flow into it. This initiative has gained considerable traction, boasting a Facebook page with 12,000 followers eager to see it come to fruition. In the past, Ladegårdsåen was a beloved open stream where city children splashed happily during hot summer days; with a revitalization, it could become that again.
Plastic Rain Trousers
Amid all this water, it’s easy to forget that in many parts of the world, water is a precious commodity. Here in Denmark, residents often take their ample water supply for granted, leaving taps running while cooking or brushing their teeth—after all, it’s perpetually raining.
This abundance has led to a culture where owning not just a rain jacket, but also plastic rain trousers, is essential for biking through the downpours. Yet HOFOR, Copenhagen’s municipal water company, warns that by as early as 2040, the city could face a drinking water shortage, driven by climate change, population growth, and the contamination of groundwater with heavy metals. (HOFOR certainly has a financial stake in this, as they seek funding to upgrade infrastructure.)
Tap Water is Expensive in Denmark
Surprisingly, tap water in Denmark is amongst the most expensive in the world, especially when factoring in taxes and environmental levies, as reported by the OECD. Visitors may be shocked to find themselves charged for a glass of tap water at restaurants—often at a steep price.
Recently, I was charged 55 kroner (around $10) for a glass of ice water alongside my hamburger in Horsens. If you request a jug or carafe of tap water, be prepared for a potentially hefty bill.
Nevertheless, we should cherish the availability of clean water in Denmark. It’s a comfort to enjoy it from within a cozy café, watching the November rain trickle down the window.
