A Star on the Rise: Koan’s Culinary Journey in Copenhagen
Imagine launching a restaurant that not only earns two Michelin stars just two months after opening, but also debuts at number 91 on the World’s 50 Best list just two years later. This remarkable phenomenon is precisely what Koan, located in Copenhagen, has achieved. After experiencing the restaurant firsthand, it’s clear that these accolades are not simply flashy achievements; they are well-earned.
This visit was not my first encounter with Koan; rather, it was a return to see if its trajectory of success was sustained and whether its distinct identity remained intact. At my last visit, I noted not just ambition but a profound confidence that permeated the dining experience.
A Pairings Program with Purpose
During my previous dining experience, the evolution of Koan’s pairing program stood out significantly. It has since expanded from a simpler offering to include five distinct pairings: two wine options, champagne, a non-alcoholic selection, and a pairing that emphasizes South Korean spirits. While the variety is impressive, it is the intention behind these pairings that truly shines.
Koan caters to discerning diners, ensuring that every pairing feels meticulously crafted, standing as a complete experience rather than an addendum to the meal. The evening naturally commences with champagne, and here, Koan makes its ambitions unmistakable. From Jacques Selosse and Krug to more accessible options, this choice sets the tone, immediately conveying both the restaurant’s identity and its clientele.
Familiarity Meets Innovation
Gazing over the menu before dinner highlighted a delicate balance between the familiar and the intriguing. Dishes I recognized comfortably coexisted with new creations, suggesting not a complete reinvention but rather an evolution of a beloved identity.
The snacks that preceded the meal spoke volumes about Koan’s precision and artistry. Each bite was a masterclass in flavor clarity rather than ostentation. I savored the oyster with baksuld and champagne sauce—a dish just as delightful as I remembered. Its richness and depth were too good to let a single drop of sauce go to waste. Next came a crisp tart featuring acorn, fermented green strawberry, and green chili, delicately garnished to hint at the restaurant’s past while pointing toward future ambitions.
Dishes that Define Identity
Koan has already cultivated standout dishes that are integral to its identity, notably the tofu with caviar and fermented strawberries. This dish is iconic for good reason; the fusion of silky tofu, bright acidity, and caviar’s saline depth offers a tantalizing experience that unfolds in layers.
Another signature is the warm kkwabaegi served with cold salted butter. Its simplicity is gratifying—unpretentious yet unmistakably Koan, resembling a bread you won’t find elsewhere.
One dish that has particularly evolved is a delicate slice of ribeye wrapped around langoustine. While surf and turf rarely piques my interest, this interpretation captivates me by defying expectations. It harmonizes the heat of kimchi and the umami depth of caramelized garlic and onion. The care put into details—like the heart-shaped cut of each oxalis leaf—speaks volumes about the precision and passion in Koan’s kitchen.
Celebrating Rice as a Centerpiece
As the meal progressed, it felt natural for the final savory courses to center around rice—specifically, gamasot claypot-cooked rice. My recent travels through Southeast Asia taught me that claypot rice exists in an entirely different realm from the plain rice often relegated to a mere side.
At Koan, this dish takes center stage. Crowned with brown crab and truffle, the claypot rice is both refined and deeply comforting. If your inner child is still alive, don’t hesitate to mix it all into a glorious mess, ensuring every bite is a bit of everything—a joyful dismantling of something beautifully crafted.
Staying true to tradition, the remaining rice is transformed into a humble porridge—visually unassuming yet heartwarming, reminding us that nourishment often lies in simplicity.
Desserts with Intention
Koan applies the same seriousness to dessert as it does to the savory courses. A perfectly round scoop of rose parfait provides a refreshing segue before arriving at the grand finale.
The pièce de résistance is an intellectually bold dessert that, to my knowledge, was among the first to incorporate caviar into sweet dishes—roasted seaweed ice cream paired with hazelnut oil and gastrounika ice cream. This unexpected combination pairs effortlessly with the refined salinity of the caviar.
It reaches its zenith when accompanied by a warm, melting milky oolong tea soufflé. The gentle release of steam invites an exquisite blend of sweet and savory notes, offering an indulgence that is hard to resist.
The Prestige Pairing: Worth Every Krone
For this occasion, I opted for the prestige wine pairing, which, despite its hefty price tag of DKK 5,000, proved worth every crown. While showcasing famed labels can be straightforward, curating wines that enhance each dish requires finesse. At Koan, every pairing felt intentional.
My usual preference leans towards natural wines, yet here, conventional selections captured my allegiance. Highlights included a 2009 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie paired beautifully with blood sausage and a 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis alongside the ribeye and langoustine—a potent counterpoint to the sauce’s spice. The crab and rice found their match in a 2012 Comtes, a champagne that embodies elegance and finesse.
Service That Elevates the Experience
A three-star experience demands seamless excellence in every facet of service, and Koan delivers just that. This year, the most striking improvement was in the attentiveness of the staff.
They remembered every detail from my previous visits—my preference for still or sparkling water, the champagne I had chosen, even my tea selection. This level of thoughtful recall is a rarity, and it’s evident that these details hold significance.
For a fleeting moment, you feel like the center of the universe, entirely cared for—an emotion I’ve only encountered at a handful of the world’s finest dining establishments.
A Measured Conclusion
Given Michelin’s historical caution, it may be surprising if Koan receives three stars at the upcoming ceremony. Yet, based on my experiences, it would be entirely merited—even at just three years post-opening.
Koan embodies the fervor, drive, and curiosity characteristic of a burgeoning restaurant, while exuding the composure and consistency of an established one. This rare combination is what makes Koan one of the most captivating dining experiences in Copenhagen.
Practical Information
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Head Chef: Kristian Baumann
Menu: 15 courses DKK 3600 ($560)
Website: www.koancph.dk
