Lille Mølle: A Taste of Promise in Copenhagen’s Culinary Scene
Christoffer Sørensen has long been celebrated as one of Copenhagen’s most gifted chefs, earning accolades that speak to his formidable talent. Yet, during his tenure at Studio, the Michelin star many believed was imminent eluded him. With the launch of Lille Mølle—his latest restaurant nestled in a historic mill just north of the city—Sørensen appears poised for a breakthrough from the realm of potential to established brilliance.
The Danish media have been quick to herald Lille Mølle as a success, awarding it top marks across the board. Anticipation naturally runs high.
Lille Mølle, translating to “small mill,” resides precisely where one would expect. The building, once home to a lively Latin-inspired bistro, has undergone a complete transformation. Gone are the vibrant colors; the interior now features muted tones, classic furnishings, and vintage paintings that evoke nostalgia without any sense of artifice. The dining room communicates a seriousness that signals a refined dining experience rather than a passing trend.
Our culinary journey began with a glass of champagne, followed by three exquisite snacks. The ingredients were classic—caviar, oysters, shrimp—all artfully presented. Yet, it was the simplest offering—a dish of rabbit with garlic—that lingered longest in my memory, highlighting Sørensen’s knack for creating profound comfort through understated flavors.
This brilliance shone through in one of the meal’s standout dishes: a time-honored pairing of potato and caviar. Here, the potato had been confit and lightly fermented, introducing a subtle acidity that beautifully balanced the richness, while elderflower oil provided a delicate lift. The execution felt both assured and convincing.
Next came razor clams paired with horseradish. What struck me most was the careful attention to detail—a spoon designed to resemble a miniature mill cradled the horseradish snow. In a restaurant aspiring for Michelin recognition, such nuances matter. This dedication to presentation was echoed in a tableside mushroom broth infusion, enriched with thyme and herbs. Although not crafted from scratch, its preparation served as an enjoyable ritual, reinforcing the restaurant’s ambitious intentions.
However, not every dish reached the same heights. A classic combination of cauliflower, caramelised cream, and caviar fell flat, with the cauliflower overshadowing rather than enhancing the dish. Similarly, a squid paired with chicken wing broth and fermented cucumber—the dish that once carried off the title of “dish of the year”—remains at odds with itself in terms of flavor, at least in my estimation.
Yet the menu regained its stride with dishes grounded in simplicity and clarity. A confit egg accompanied by mushrooms and a generous flourish of herbs delivered an umami punch. Even more remarkable was a plate of Norwegian scallops with apple and Jerusalem artichoke—so well-balanced in flavor and texture that it begged for a clean plate. The poached halibut served with champagne and roe continued this reassuring trend, embodying elegance, comfort, and technical finesse.
For the final savory course, Sørensen revisited familiar territory with a mallard, beetroot, and Sichuan pepper dish previously celebrated at Studio. Here, it shone again—polished, confident, and distinctly his.
Dessert offered a study in contrast. First came a surprisingly austere celeriac “ice cream” accompanied by juices of wood sorrel and spruce—refreshingly appropriate following a lengthy tasting. The finale, a reinterpretation of the traditional Danish sweet øllebrød, veered in an opposite direction. While the concept of using leftover bread cooked in dark beer, with spices and tonka bean, was commendable, in practice, it proved overly sweet and rich, leaving little room for a finish.
As the evening unfolded, we were invited upstairs to a room that felt entirely preserved in time—century-old chairs and shelves lined with books created an atmosphere that felt untouched by the passing years. This nostalgic space is a rare gem, the kind of X-factor many fine dining establishments aspire to but seldom achieve.
Yet, as I departed Lille Mølle, I carried a familiar sense of disappointment. Similar to my experiences at Studio, the meal did not fully encapsulate Christoffer Sørensen’s potential. The restaurant is certainly not without its strengths; the potato with caviar, scallop, and duck all exhibit a caliber worthy of Michelin recognition. What remains elusive is consistency—and perhaps a more evident sense of progression. Several dishes on the menu date back nearly five years, and while they are commendable, I had hoped to see more signs of culinary evolution.
Oversight of the dining experience fell to the seasoned Jesper Møller, who expertly balanced precision with warmth. A shared upbringing in a small Jutland town became a running joke throughout the evening, adding a personal touch without slipping into informality.
Our meal lasted nearly five and a half hours, an endurance test that perhaps highlights the challenges often faced by new establishments. While such pacing can be forgiven in a restaurant just over two months old, it inevitably impacts the overall experience.
While most Danish critics have awarded Lille Mølle a perfect score, my evaluation lands at 4.5 out of 6. The restaurant is not quite in Michelin territory—yet it is tantalizingly close. With time, refinement, and a clearer commitment to innovation, Lille Mølle could indeed turn promise into recognition. The talent is evident, the service exemplary, and the ingredients top-notch. What remains is the journey from potential to undeniable reality.
Practical Information
- Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
- Menu: 15-course tasting menu DKK 1,795 ($270)
- Website: Lille Mølle
