A Year of Contrasts: Restaurant Texture Celebrates Its First Anniversary
In the heart of Copenhagen, Restaurant Texture has navigated its inaugural year with remarkable highs and unexpected challenges. Just eight months after opening its doors, the establishment secured a Michelin star—a milestone that stands in sharp contrast to the silence that surrounded it before. Indeed, prior to the award, the restaurant had gone unexamined by Danish food critics, with one publication even choosing not to review it, doubting its longevity.
But survive it did.
The Michelin recognition not only drew an influx of diners, but it also inspired the kitchen to fully embrace its culinary identity.
Head chef Karim Khouani hails from the south of France, and his approach to cooking is imbued with a genuine connection to classic French cuisine—more than just a formal education. His deep appreciation for decadent ingredients and traditional techniques shines through in every dish, particularly in a landscape where many so-called French restaurants often lack this authenticity. At Texture, expect to encounter genuine French staples like frog legs, blood sausage, caviar, oysters, and turbot without the need for pretense.
The meal begins memorably with an array of opening snacks designed to excite the palate. Truffle, Comté cheese, tuna belly, caviar, and frog legs arrive in swift succession, each bite a testament to Karim’s fearless approach to flavor. This is not a kitchen that shies away from boldness; rather, it showcases a delightful audacity that sets the stage for what’s to come.
Guests start their culinary journey in the lounge just inside the entrance, progressing to a narrow corridor adorned with the restaurant’s Michelin jacket before arriving at the intimate dining room. Once seated, the first course—a Gillardeau oyster embellished with horseradish snow, prepared using liquid nitrogen—graces the table. While the theatrics of liquid nitrogen may feel somewhat dated, the flavors certainly do not disappoint. The subsequent oyster course, more subdued in its presentation, surprises with a rich comfort that lingers on the palate.
Among Texture’s standout offerings is the lobster “apple slice” embellished with caviar—a dish I recalled from a prior visit as lacking moisture. This time, however, it was executed to perfection: tender, delicate, and just a touch runny at the center. A brief interlude of duck fat-brushed brioche, accompanied by exquisite French butter, followed—indulgent and utterly irresistible, despite its lack of necessity.
As the meal progressed, the final savory courses showcased a full embrace of classic French comfort. The first was foie gras paired with quince, harmonizing sweetness and texture. Next came Norwegian scallop with truffle and potato purée, followed by flawlessly cooked turbot drizzled with beurre blanc. Each dish may not break new ground, but that’s precisely their charm: a confident return to tradition, executed with clarity and skill.
Dessert commenced with a much-anticipated goat cheese sorbet garnished with bergamot, honey, and olive oil. Here, Karim’s adventurous spirit is palpable, though the balance faltered slightly—the goat cheese’s potency overshadowed the other elements. A more harmonious finale arrived in the form of a fried brioche with Jerusalem artichoke and a hint of orange blossom water, offering a delightful union of sweet and savory.
Seating fewer than twenty guests, Texture strikes a balance between intimacy and sophistication. Wooden panels adorn the walls, while the crisp white tablecloths anchor the serene atmosphere. The subtle showcase of digital reproductions of French masterpieces serves as a gentle nod to the restaurant’s ethos, while the impeccably dressed service team pays homage to the classical French dining aesthetic.
French cuisine has long held sway over the realm of fine dining, laying the foundation for countless contemporary restaurants. Yet what distinguishes Texture is its unwavering commitment to authenticity. The food is unabashedly French, executed with both confidence and character, even when that confidence flirts with extravagance.
As Texture marks its first anniversary, it has realized the promise of a Michelin-starred establishment—not through emulation of fleeting trends, but by steadfastly honoring its roots.
Practical Information
- Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
- Head Chef: Karim Khouani
- Menu: 8 or 10 course menu DKK 2795 ($450)
- Website: www.texturesrestaurant.com
