A Culinary Transition at Frederiksminde: Embracing New Horizons
Replacing a Michelin-starred chef is no small feat, and Frederiksminde has recently found itself navigating this challenge head-on. After 16 years in the kitchen and 11 years under the esteemed Michelin star of chef Jonas Mikkelsen, a new era begins with the appointment of Mulla Yalcin.
Just two days before my visit, Frederiksminde retained its star, but the owners are clearly aiming higher. As I prepared for my meal, the primary question on my mind was what fresh direction the kitchen would take and whether this celebrated establishment would continue to earn its place in the Michelin Guide.
Nestled in the picturesque seaside town of Præstø, the inn exudes history and charm. Long before one steps inside, the tranquility of the surroundings starts to work its magic. The atmosphere of the inn—with its vintage decor, timeworn beds, and the soft creaks of an aging building—invokes a sense of nostalgia. The rooms may not be expansive, but they are undoubtedly cozy, reminiscent of the warm embrace of a grandparent’s house.
Wandering through Præstø’s cobblestone streets offers a delightful respite before settling down on the terrace with a stunning view of the water. If the Danish weather cooperates, it’s the ideal spot for a pre-dinner drink.
The meal commenced with a traditional lineup of snacks designed to tease both the palate and the imagination. A croustade featuring pear, horseradish, and oyster, alongside a snail dressed in salsa verde that sent my thoughts drifting to ceviche in Peru, prepared my senses beautifully. Complemented by a delightful tartlet of cockles nestled in a sweet carrot shell, each bite affirmed the promise of the evening ahead.
Mulla’s love for the ocean became immediately apparent with the evening’s standout dish: razor clam and seaweed, a refreshing composition brimming with briny salinity and floral notes. This was followed by hiramasa wrapped in a delicate Chinese radish “dumpling,” served in a clear broth that offered pure, revitalizing flavors.
As the courses unfolded, Mulla expertly transitioned from the light and bright to his signature brioche toast, lavishly topped with mussels, lardo, and a luxurious mayonnaise infused with mussel stock. What appeared at first to be a straightforward dish revealed complex umami flavors that were surprisingly comforting.
From there, the meal ventured into more experimental territory. A presentation of almonds, prepared in various textures, was accompanied by a walnut sauce that added depth, while dehydrated strawberries introduced a touch of sweetness. This course was a testament to Mulla’s innovative approach, blending technical excellence with comforting familiarity—a refreshing breath of fresh air from the Frederiksminde of old.
In fine dining, bread can often be an afterthought or merely a vessel for sauces. Yet at Frederiksminde, it emerged as a highlight—a classic baguette accompanied by the lightest and fluffiest brioche imaginable, showcasing craftsmanship and flavor reminiscent of a three-star Michelin establishment.
Generosity in dining can sometimes lead to imbalance, as was the case with the next dish: Rossini caviar paired with grilled romaine and lettuce juice. Though the portion size was decadent, it tipped the dish’s balance. While I savored every morsel, a more measured serving would have created an even more harmonious bite. If one must err, perhaps an abundance of caviar is an acceptable misstep.
Much of the menu leans towards New Nordic aesthetics, vibrant with acidity, while still honoring traditional French techniques. A pithivier filled with langoustine and accompanied by a rich shellfish sauce stood as a benchmark; this technically demanding dish tested the kitchen’s prowess and, without question, they passed with flying colors.
While a lobster dish bathed in saffron sauce felt slightly off-balance, it was quickly forgotten with the arrival of grilled summer turnip alongside charred cabbage—a rich reflection of classic French flavors, both satisfying and elegant.
The dessert course brought a delightful return to Denmark with a lemon custard reminiscent of childhood. Enhanced by finger lime and lemon verbena, it was both nuanced and nostalgic. Rounding off the meal was a sea buckthorn soufflé, an exquisite marriage of French and Danish influences that showcased the tart fruit’s delightful acidity.
As I relished a canelé to conclude the evening, I reflected on my dining experience. The landscape of Michelin-starred restaurants can vary widely in Denmark, and with just six months under Mulla’s guidance, expectations were uncertain.
However, the evening’s outcome was unequivocal. Frederiksminde has emerged as one of Denmark’s premier one-star Michelin establishments. With a keen focus on flavor, the menu artfully balances creativity with comfort, seamlessly weaving together New Nordic and French inspirations. It’s clear that the kitchen draws on the bounty of the surrounding landscape, allowing seasonal vegetables to take center stage in spring and summer.
With such a promising start, it’s an exciting time for Frederiksminde. Under Mulla’s leadership, the future looks bright.
In the words of Michelin, Frederiksminde is undoubtedly worth a detour.
Practical Information
- Website: frederiksminde.com
- Head Chef: Mulla Yalcin
- Menu: 9-course tasting menu DKK 2200 (€350)
