Once nestled within the walls of a quaint old church in Antwerp, The Jane has embarked on a transformative journey over the past seven months, moving to a contemporary locale. Such a significant shift is rarely made without compelling reasons, and for Chef Nick Bril, the unique setting of the Goren Kwartier church became a constraint, limiting his culinary aspirations for the acclaimed restaurant.
The new venue, located in a vibrant harbor district, offers Nick a fresh canvas to realize his culinary dream. It’s an enticing opportunity—one that allows him to infuse the space with his distinct personality and imaginative flair.
As my evening began in the inviting lounge, I was greeted by a series of exquisite snacks. Each one was a meticulous one-bite wonder, brimming with ingredients designed to create layers of flavor. A distinct Japanese influence coursed through them, with my personal favorite emerging as a pumpkin tartlet topped with smoked eel, ponzu, and crispy leeks. This dish exemplified Nick’s prowess in flavor layering; it was a feast for the senses even before the first bite.
Transitioning from the intimate lounge to the main dining room, I entered a spacious area where the kitchen took center stage, allowing diners to witness the culinary drama unfold.
Nick’s passion for ancient cooking techniques, particularly those that employ fire, came to life in dishes like flambadou—a method involving fiery instruments that quickly sear bone marrow and aged beef to create a sensational depth of flavor. Although this theatrical approach was executed in the kitchen rather than at the table, it was clear that the emphasis was firmly on flavor rather than spectacle.
Nick’s travels shine through his creations. A crudo of hiramasa from Denmark arrived adorned with a Mexican ceviche-inspired sauce, while a chawanmushi offered a quintessentially Japanese taste. The plate also featured an otoro nigiri, exquisitely topped with foie gras, vanilla, and onion ponzu. Though it diverged from tradition, its complexity and delightful flavors hinted at a potential signature dish destined to join the ranks of the restaurant’s renowned oyster, caviar, and chutoro ensemble. While both dishes were masterfully balanced, I found the previous combination to hold a unique charm that left me yearning for more.
The menu had thus far showcased creativity, with each dish presenting a complex flavor profile drawing inspiration from around the globe. However, as is customary for larger savory courses, comfort took precedence here, with Nick recognizing that Antwerp’s locals often prefer familiar tastes. It’s a sensible approach that aligns perfectly with local preferences.
The final trio of savory dishes embraced richness, featuring buttery sauces and luxurious ingredients like lobster, guinea fowl, and vin jaune. The standout for me was the guinea fowl raised in Bresse, renowned for its succulence. The pairings of chanterelles and flowers with a velvety cheese sauce elevated the dish, while the fire-kissed flavors from preparation added an enchanting depth.
My dessert experience at The Jane unfolded gracefully with three tantalizing offerings. The first appeared deceptively classic: a medley of fresh strawberries, yogurt, and ice cream. Yet this was no ordinary ice cream; it boasted an intriguing asparagus flavor, while the yogurt was derived from sheep’s milk, adding unexpected depth to a dish that may have otherwise felt mundane.
The next dessert, featuring dark chocolate, cherries, almonds, and olive oil, captivated with its harmonious contrasts. Simple in appearance yet rich in complexity, it revealed layers of flavor that delighted the palate. To close my meal, a medley of sesame and bread caramel provided a soothing finish to an unforgettable dining experience.
Throughout the evening, it became evident that Nick deftly balances his adventurous spirit, marked by bold and global flavors, with a grounding in comforting, familiar dishes. This duality made for an engaging meal; the initial courses dazzled with complexity and depth, while the later dishes provided a sense of nostalgia and warmth.
Apart from his culinary prowess, Nick’s background as a DJ infuses the restaurant with a musical rhythm, enhancing the overall dining experience with tunes that match the evening’s vibrant yet comforting ambiance.
The restaurant’s design beautifully melds traditional table seating with counter-inspired arrangements, fostering a sense of intimacy. Diners sit close together, creating a more personal atmosphere that heightens the connection to the kitchen.
Though I missed the opportunity to experience The Jane in its former church setting, this new location holds remarkable promise. Each dish I enjoyed resonated with creativity—especially those that embodied Nick’s personal touch. With a blank canvas to work with, Nick has crafted an intimate space where fire and passion create a tantalizing culinary narrative. As he continues to refine his vision, I can’t help but look forward to what culinary adventures lie ahead.
**Practical Information**
**Location**: Antwerp, Belgium
**Head Chef**: Nick Bril
**Menu**: 12-course tasting menu €285
**Website**: [www.thejaneantwerp.com](http://www.thejaneantwerp.com)
