Travelers Stephen Thomas, Sandra, and Brian Quinn prepare for a glacier walk, outfitted with crampons.
<p>**August 12-16, 2025**</p>
Our recent five-day journey in Iceland—an enlightening prelude to a National Geographic/Lindblad expedition—can be credited to the meticulous planning by Mads and his adept team. Although my husband, son, and I had visited Iceland's coast during a 2019 expedition, we hadn’t scratched the surface of its wonders. After poring over client reviews, Mads’ Insider's Guide, and itineraries shared by friends, the abundance of options was initially overwhelming. Fortunately, engaging with Mads was immensely helpful in tailoring an itinerary that resonated with our interests. Communication with both Mads and his colleague Tina was seamless, leaving us with clear guidance on clothing choices and tipping etiquette in Iceland.
Upon arrival, our airport transfer went smoothly to Hotel Keflavik, where we were pleasantly surprised to find our accommodation upgraded to a suite—remarkably luxurious for a brief one-night stay. The following morning, our true adventure began as our guide and driver, Matej, collected us for our first destination: the renowned Retreat at the Blue Lagoon. Bathed in sunlight beneath a cloudless sky, we luxuriated in the lagoon, indulging in a sauna and cold plunge pool, completing our experience with rejuvenating facials and a delightful lunch—all while still in our robes. It felt like the ideal start to our Icelandic adventure, especially for others who might arrive weary after a long journey.
As we journeyed along the Reykjanes Peninsula, Matej patiently answered our endless questions about the stunning landscapes and the island's way of life. Our first stop was the Krýsuvík Geothermal Area, a vibrant location where mud pots, hot springs, and steaming vents reveal the earth’s raw energy. This geological marvel is a product of the Mid-Atlantic Rift, where the North American tectonic plate diverges from the Eurasian plate, causing magma to rise and create these captivating geothermal features.
The highlight of our day was the Lava Tunnel tour, where we donned helmets equipped with miner's lamps for our descent into this ancient formation. Created by a volcanic eruption over 5,200 years ago, the tunnel stretches an impressive 3,000 feet long and nearly 100 feet wide, featuring soaring ceilings up to 33 feet high—making it one of Iceland's most magnificent lava tunnels. The intricate colors and textures of the lava formations astounded us, and we exited the tunnel buzzing with excitement. By the end of the day, we arrived at Hotel Ranga, nestled along a tranquil river populated by swans. Our accommodations were cozy, and dinner offered a delectable mix of Icelandic dishes and international fare. Breakfast, abundant with options, included a local treat—cod liver oil, a daily ritual for many Icelanders.
The next day commenced with a visit to the mesmerizing Seljalandsfoss waterfall, where we ventured behind the cascading waters for a mist-laden view of the world beyond. Shortly after, we marveled at Skogafoss, walking alongside the riverbank to take in its grandeur. Our exploration continued at the Dyrholaey Lighthouse, where the stunning beauty of the peninsula unfolded before us, revealing black sand beaches and an active puffin colony nesting in the cliffs. Reynisfjara black sand beach, with its dramatic sands and breathtaking basalt columns at Halsanefshellir Cave, left us in awe. Surrounded by such geological diversity, we found ourselves wishing for a geology degree to fully appreciate the landscape.
Next, the Reynisdrangar Sea Stacks punctuated the horizon before we paused for lunch and embarked on an exhilarating super jeep ride to Kötlujökull Glacier, an outlet of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap that conceals the Katla Volcano beneath its icy veneer. After a safety briefing, we fitted our helmets and strapped on crampons before embarking on our glacier trek. Among the verdant mountains, we navigated the glacier’s striking contrasts of black sand and shimmering ice. When the opportunity arose to wield an ice pick and extract a chunk of crystal-clear ice to taste, I took a swing and was rewarded with that refreshing gem. The ice cave, adorned with diverse textures and hues, was another highlight, featuring a rushing glacial stream that we crossed on a narrow bridge.
The following morning, we set out for an all-day exploration of Landmannalaugar, located within a nature preserve that’s accessible only in summer. Matej kindly facilitated a stop at a local grocery store and bakery for our lunch, provisioning us with delicious snacks for the journey ahead. As he expertly navigated the winding gravel roads and shallow rivers, we stopped at Sigoldugljufur Canyon—aptly named Iceland's "Valley of Tears" for its cascading waterfalls and moss-covered cliffs—the sheer beauty was breathtaking. Another stunning vista awaited us at Blahylur Lake, a volcanic crater born from an eruption in 871, where the deep blue waters captivated us against the backdrop of green, brown, and gray hills.
Upon arriving in Landmannalaugar, the damp chill in the air didn’t deter the many backpackers and campers bustling about. We climbed toward the Laugahraun lava field, laid down in 1477, where the visually striking lava formations and obsidian rocks invited endless fascination. Despite the long journey, we felt the effort was entirely worthwhile, a reminder of the stark contrast between Iceland’s summer vibrancy and its winter harshness.
After a delightful stay at Hotel Ranga, our final day with Matej took us to a geothermal bakery, where we eagerly unearthed rye bread from a container submerged in boiling thermal waters for a full 24 hours. Fortified by this delicious bread and smoked salmon, we set our sights on the Gullfoss waterfall, another breathtaking spectacle. Next, we delighted in Geysir, marveling at the geyser's impressive eruptions that left us spellbound. A standout moment of our journey was our lunch at the Friðheimar tomato farm, where we savored a host of delectable tomato-based dishes while surrounded by towering plants. True tomato enthusiasts, we felt we were in paradise!
Our final stop brought us to Thingvellir National Park (Þingvellir), a UNESCO World Heritage Site that holds the honor of Iceland's first parliament, established in 930 AD. Walking along the visible edges of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet, left us with an exhilarating sense of connection to our planet's geological history.
Throughout our trip, Matej emerged as an engaging, knowledgeable guide, effortlessly weaving narratives about geology and historical sites while attuning himself to our interests. Although much of our time was spent in the car, the ever-changing landscape provided a captivating backdrop that spurred rich conversations. As we neared Reykjavik, Matej kindly oriented us to the area surrounding our hotel. With heartfelt appreciation, we bid him farewell, certain we would seek his guidance once more. Having him by our side made our days not just stress-free but truly enriching, allowing us to savor the wonders of Iceland. Reflecting on our journey, we feel no need for changes and are already dreaming of our next adventure back to this breathtaking land.