Don’t attempt casual banter with strangers. Steer clear of discussing the weather. And definitely avoid asking acquaintances how they are… I stumbled across these social etiquette lessons in a travel guide to Denmark, a full four days into our ten-day adventure. Having already breached protocol on day one, I was caught off guard. “Look at that!” I exclaimed to a couple lounging opposite me in our hotel’s subterranean sauna. A window revealed a view of the outdoor pool: “A human fish!” My words hung in the air, met only by silence.
Yet, there is so much to discuss, starting with our accommodation at the Bryggen Guldsmeden Eco Resort. This former shoe factory, nestled along the picturesque harbor of Copenhagen’s Islands Brygge, is a sight to behold. In the reception area, tasteful fake trees blossom with pink accents, deer heads silently observe from the wall, and funky stained glass art adds a splash of whimsy. Not to mention the Balinese-style bedrooms, chic pool loungers, an extravagant breakfast reminiscent of “Babette’s Feast,” and even a silver Airstream caravan serving drinks by the pool.
This trip is a family journey, blending the pulsating rhythm of city life with the serenity of the countryside and the coast. After spending two vibrant days in Copenhagen on Zealand Island, we headed towards the Danish Riviera, eventually making our way to Jutland, where the picturesque Lake District and the charming city of Aarhus awaited us.
Our first morning was a revelation. We delved into the Cisterns—an underground art space repurposed from a former reservoir. We were luckier than most as we encountered “Start Again the Lament,” a haunting sound installation by Tarya Simon that explored profound themes of death, loss, and grief. Amid the dim lighting, we traversed illuminated paths floating above water, absorbing recitations from professional mourners.
Emerging back into daylight, we took a bus to the city center and meandered through the iconic Nyhavn, the celebrated 17th-century harbor, towards the bustling Seaside Toldboden complex at Nordre Toldbod waterfront. There, we sipped margaritas under the sun while admiring the yachts drifting by. Copenhagen’s sense of community shines brightly—whether sharing a meal or taking a dip in the canals, the city’s residents embrace togetherness, exemplified by the popular Islands Brygge Harbor Bath, conveniently close to our hotel.
That evening, we dined at Gaza Grill, a delightful Middle Eastern eatery nestled in Vesterbro’s Meatpacking District. Our culinary indulgence escalated the following night at the Nimb Hotel—a Moorish fantasy boasting a stunning rooftop bar adjacent to the enchanting Tivoli Gardens amusement park, where the glamorous brasserie serves French cuisine complemented by a view of the park’s attractions.
In stark contrast, our excursion to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art—just a 40-minute train ride from Copenhagen—offered a serene escape. This 1870s villa, coupled with three modernist pavilions, is set within a sculptural garden that boasts breathtaking views of the sea. Our journey took us next to Helsingør’s Kronborg Castle, steeped in history as the backdrop of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Amidst the ramparts, as we readied ourselves to recite ghosts from our phones, we encountered a pair of newlyweds from Japan striking a pose in their wedding attire, a skull held aloft. The beauty of tourists never ceases to amuse me, prompting a rather uncharacteristic cheer.
The drive to the Danish Riviera, through flat, open farmland, led us to Tisvilde—an old fishing village—and the elegant Helenkilde Badehotel. With a stylish lunch terrace, rattan-lined porches, cozy living areas, and a panoramic sauna offering sea views, this clifftop retreat exudes a quiet sophistication.
As we savored a candle-lit dinner in the hotel’s charming restaurant, my younger son remarked, “You haven’t got the vibe to be Danish.” I couldn’t help but stifle a laugh, recalling an earlier sighting of a naked couple we had spotted at a nearby naturist beach, now walking in fully clothed. It struck me as humorously incongruous in this context, though perhaps it revealed more about me than I cared to admit.
The following day, after a drizzly walk through the pine forest of Tisvilde Hegn, we sought refuge with cinnamon buns and hot chocolate at Brød & Vin café. Rejuvenated for the Lake District leg of our journey, we took a ferry from Odden to Aarhus on Jutland’s eastern coast. From there, we drove southwest to indulge in an exquisite dinner at the Gastronomisk Institut within the Knudehule Badehotel. While the hotel appeared modest at first glance, furnished like a hiker’s lodge, our room featured a surprising four-poster waterbed equipped with massage capabilities; the evening’s culinary highlight was a savory crab pottage paired with a crisp Mosel Riesling.
Anders Kalstrup, the charming manager, encouraged us to hike up to Himmelbjerget tower in the nearby town of Silkeborg, a riverside hub where Danish democracy found its roots in the 19th century. At 147 meters, Himmelbjerget is Denmark’s second-highest point—a modest height compared to the UK’s Lake District, but in this pancake landscape of rolling highlands, the views are striking. Our resting place was the comfortable Scandic Silkeborg, an ideal base for walkers. Here you can visit the Silkeborg Museum where the famous Tollund Man is exhibited, as well as enjoy a ride on Denmark’s oldest paddle steamer, the Hjejlen.
Our adventure continued as we climbed to new heights with a visit to the ARoS Museum in Aarhus, where Olafur Eliasson’s rooftop installation provides sweeping 360-degree views of this often-overlooked port city. More enchanting circles awaited us at Aarhus Bay, where the Infinite Bridge seamlessly connects beach and sea. We rounded off our journey in the whimsically spirited Hotel Royal, right beside Aarhus Cathedral. Its old-world lobby, adorned with frescoes, features Scandinavia’s oldest operating elevator, complete with scissor gates and a charming seat. Just remember—don’t try to strike up a conversation.
For more information, visit visitdenmark.com
